Tag Archives: cooking

Food for thought–and dinner

My nephew was born on Thanksgiving day, so I always think of it as his birthday even when the 23rd falls a bit short of the actual day. As a college student at my alma mater, he’s having a ball this year living in an actual house instead of a dorm, and is taking advantage of having access to a real kitchen and learning to make some of his favorite foods.  He and I share a predilection for Indian food of all sorts, so for his birthday this year I put together a little package to help him along in his culinary education:

  • A copy of Madhur Jaffrey’s Quick and Easy Indian Cooking
  • A selection of the spices and herbs needed for Indian cooking
  • A neat little box (courtesy of the beading section of a craft store) to hold the latter
  • A small mortar and pestle
  • A baggie of nice Darjeeling tea and a tea infuser
  • A bag of basmati rice
  • A bag of fresh ginger

[For a more readable look at just what I included, take a peek at a larger version of this photo on my Flickr site.]

In return I’ve extracted a promise from him that he’ll cook me a meal when I visit him at school one of these days. Hey, a present’s not a present unless there are strings attached, right?

Ringers

Homemade inspiration must be in the air. Second Child got all hepped up about making onion rings this morning. With Vidalia onions. I was able to hold her off until 11:30 this morning, then she dived in and made them. Aren’t they beautiful?

The sad thing? She doesn’t even like onion rings. Nor does the Better Half.  Crazy People.  It was up to First Child and me to do our duty by them.

It was a tough job, but somebody had to do it. They were the best ever.  Sweet and tender inside, shatteringly crisp outside. We made a whole lunch out of them.

There is art afoot, too–don’t worry. As I type this I have three new gelatin plates in a variety of sizes waiting for me in the kitchen. They look like good, durable ones.  I’m waiting for a stroke of inspiration of my own, but I promise there will be printing within the next few hours.

If we had some biscuits . . .

The Better Half used to amuse the kids by looking into the fridge and saying “if we had some ham we could have some ham and eggs if we had some eggs.”  Owing to the fact that I recently returned from a pilgrimage to Tennessee, we had not only ham, but truly amazing country ham. I don’t mean that sweet spiral sliced stuff Yankees eat at Easter. And I don’t mean the peanut-fed, sugar-cured stuff (though it’s also yummy) that borderline southern states serve up and call it country (I’m ducking for cover here now).

No, I mean the tough, salty, leathery, chewy, addictive stuff that is real country ham.

I feel so strongly about authentic country ham that I once did a commentary about it that ran on NPR’s All Things Considered. If you’d like to, you can listen to it here. It’s not very long and it will clue you in if you don’t know what I’m talking about [for the record, I moved away from Tennessee a bit over half my life ago, and I hardly sound southern at all unless

  • I’ve just returned from an extended visit back home
  • I’ve had two cocktails
  • I’m reading out loud (especially, apparently, about country ham]

Anyway, after my most recent trip last month I brought back some from Tennessee for a friend (a fellow traveler in things culinary) who was having a birthday, and some for us. We ate the last batch of it tonight. Here’s some of it cooking in my (great-grandmother’s) cast iron skillet.

And here are the biscuits waiting to be baked.

[Do you think I had biscuits on the brain when I printed this last month?]

And the two together (with a bowl of baked apples on the side).

The ham’s all gone now. We are sated, thirsty (the stuff is powerfully salty), and mighty pleased with ourselves.

Never mind that we totally forgot to cook any eggs.

Must. Go. Drink. More. Water. Now.

Ersatz Photos of a Real Thanksgiving

I’m a pretty good cook. Really a quite good cook, when I put my mind to it. Too often I don’t, though. I put something in the oven and then pick up a book and sit down at the kitchen table while I’m waiting for it to brown, or for something else to come to a boil, and then . . . well, it’s not for nothing that one of my family’s sayings is “Dinner is ready when the smoke alarm goes off.”

This year I’m pretty sure I lost one of my imaginary Michelin stars. First, we had decided to brine the turkey. A beautiful turkey from a turkey farm no more than 8 miles away. Herbs and lovely things like bay leaves and juniper berries went into the brine on Wednesday afternoon. We sequestered the turkey, submerged in the beautifully seasoned brine and packed in ice in a large bucket with a big rock we call The Groundhog (that’s another story) on top of it to keep the turkey in and the raccoons out in my husband’s woodworking shed to keep cold and safe.

Then on Thanksgiving morning I went to get the big jar of salt so I could add a tad of it to the pie crusts. That would be the same salt of which I’d used a cup and a half in the brine. But if I’d done that, then why was the salt jar still . . . completely full?  One of those moments ensued, the kind of moment in which a slow reckoning occurs and you think, “Dear god, then whatever did I give the wife for lunch?”

All together now: brine is mostly water and . . . what, dear reader?  Yes, you in the back row? Right, salt.  And I had left out the salt.  But completely. We hastily whipped up an extra salty quart of water and used it to replace some of the salt-less liquid covering the turkey, and put off starting the cooking for another 4 hours.

Which meant dinner was at 8:30. I tried to convince everyone that the really sophisticated people never eat before 8:30.

In the interim I got onto other things. I made dressing.  I made gravy out of the bones of a turkey breast I’d cleverly put in the freezer a month ago (freeing up today’s turkey bones for a second act as soup).  Second child did all the sous-chef chores, chopping mountains of onions and celery. She made a spectacular cranberry sauce.  First child peeled many potatoes and put them in cold water. And made gorgeous dinner rolls  I baked two pies, one apple, one pumpkin. Here is a photo of not one of those pies:


I ask you: is that not a beautiful pie?  It is my pie, a mince pie, baked in November. Of last year. Because the sad truth is that the crust of my pumpkin pie got–shall we say?–just a tiny bit too golden brown.  And the crust of my apple pie came out beautifully today, but was a tiny bit on the droopy side to be genuinely photogenic (still tasty, though). So I thought I would show you a more successful pie instead–this mince pie from last year.

And while I am showing you things I didn’t make this year, here are not First Child’s wonderful Parker House rolls. Because I was so busy hanging my head in shame over forgetting to put the salt in the brine that I didn’t get an actual photo of these actually wonderful rolls.  Instead, here is a shot of last Thanksgiving’s rolls, which were also wonderful–my friend Sandi’s crying rolls*, for which the recipe is here. They are so named because they are so good they make strong men cry. They are and they do, though, for the record, First Child’s Parker House rolls were every bit as tasty as these:

Anyway, it’s a shame to dwell on all the things that went wrong, because there was plenty of yummy food and we were deeply grateful to have both children here and healthy (a few cold germs notwithstanding) and to know that, though First Child goes back to school on Saturday, he’ll be back for a much longer visit in only two weeks.

I was going to tell you all about our Thanksgiving experiment to have only local foods at our table this year. Details can wait, but the plan succeeded more than it failed, and involved good lessons about economics (why does a pound of green beans grown 15 miles from here cost more than a pound of green beans trucked clear across the country?), flexibility (when you can’t get locally grown baking potatoes for our traditional twice-bakeds, then mashed potatoes are just fine) and gratitude to the 72 laborers who brought us this food when so many are without the very basic things they need.

But I won’t tell you all that after all this–I’ll merely say happy Thanksgiving to you and yours, and urge you to go over and get that crying roll recipe from Sandi’s blog. You won’t be sorry.

____

* Mine are yellower than hers because I made them with mashed sweet potatoes instead of white potatoes–both are very, very, very good, though, trust me.